Gokyo Trek [Nepal]
Text and Photographs by Mr. Sachin Vaidya
The sparkling, pristine blue and green waters of the Gokyo lakes are one of Nepal's the most memorable sights. The five lakes comprise the highest freshwater lake system in the world - at around 5,000 meters. I did the trek 'Gokyo Lakes and 'Gokyo Ri' conducted by Countryside Adventure Holidays Pvt. Ltd. (Mumbai) from 1st to 16th May 2022.
Day 1
Day 1 was aeroplane journey from Mumbai to Kathmandu (4,387 ft.). All trekkers stayed at Hotel Nepali Ghar which was a boutique hotel. No photographs were taken.
Day 2
Before leaving Hotel to cat up a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (9,187 ft.), I photographed a few artifacts at Hotel Nepali Ghar.
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As the weather was bad at Kathmandu airport, I was worried whether the flight would take off or not.
However, the flight took off and all the air passengers had a bird's eye view of Nepali countryside.
After landing at Lukla, tourists were busy in taking photographs and meeting fellow travelers withing their own groups.
Immediately after exiting airport, all tourists had to walk as there were no vehicles at Lukla!
Lukla was a very small airport and was also reportedly one of the most dangerous airports of the world!
After breakfast around 08-30 am, all trekkers started trekking by walking though Lukla Village.
Lukla Village catered to the trekkers by offering all services: shops selling all trekking and mountaineering equipment, shops selling maps, clothes, medicines, etc., restaurants, cafes, bars, guest houses, lodges, massage parlours, barber shops and what not!
The gate in above photograph was named after Pasang Lhamu Sherpa who was first Nepali woman to scale Mount Everest summit. A couple of minutes after exiting Lukla Village gate, all trekkers had to halt at check point where trekking permits were checked or new permits were made for those who had not made permits earlier. Availing services of a Nepali guide was a must to avail trekking permit.
The following board showed average walking distance in hours and km.; it also showed net altitude difference in meters.
Everest Region was called Sagarmatha National Park in Nepal.
From check post, we started walking towards Chaurikharka.
Buddhist relics were aplenty in route.
The countryside was lush green.
Around 08-30 am, we reached Chaurikharka.
After having ginger lemon tea, we proceeded further.
Countryside Adventure Holidays Pvt. Ltd. had organised two Nepali treks of the same duration: Everest Base Camp and Gokyo. Both the groups were together for first few days and last few days. Gokyo trek was done by three including me.
Natural rocks were sculpted and painted with Buddhist prayers.
Villages, farms, river were constant companions.
Most of the suspension bridges (in Nepal) were built with foreign collaboration.
The suspension bridges were used by men and animals for walking. There was no question of any vehicle using the bridge as there were no vehicles in the Everest Region! However, choppers (helicopters) were aplenty which we could see in the sky.
Flat stones were used to write Buddhist inscriptions.
Giant rocks were also used for writing Buddhist inscriptions.
Buddhist prayer wheels were also there preferably near villages.
Full size prayer flags were also visible at a few places.
While passing by the Buddhist relics, locals used to walk by their left hand side.
Himalayan rivers had plenty of water during summer due to melting snow from glaciers.
Around 12-30 pm, all of us reached Phakding (8,563 ft.) and had night stay there at a guest house. From Chaurikharka to Phakding, we passed by Chheplung and Yulning. The total trek was four hours and fifteen minutes from breakfast to lunch.
Day 3
We left Phakding after breakfast around quarter to eight in the morning. River view was divine as usual.
We left the lovely lodge at Phakding.
We crossed a small bridge.
Small waterfalls were adding water to the river.
At few places, seating arrangements were made to take rest.
We crossed a suspension bridge.
From Phakding to Monjo, we passed by Rimijung, and Chhumuwa.
Around 10 am, the group had ginger lemon tea at Monjo. Gigantic rocks with Buddhist engravings were found on the way.
Around 10-30 am, we reached Sagarmatha National Park entrance. A 3D relief map was placed near the check post office.
Rules and regulations for trekkers / mountaineers were placed at the check post.
Fact sheet for Sagarmatha National Park presented basic facts in a nutshell.
A board on the entrance gate cautioned the trekkers / mountaineers:
Traditional Buddhist paintings and prayer wheels adorned the interiors of the entrance gate.
A deep valley was present at one side of the entrance gate.
One could exit from the entrance gate only after checking the necessary permits by the park authorities.
In route to Jorsale, we had to cross a suspension bridge.
After having early lunch at Jorsale, the whole group proceed towards Namche Bazar; in route, we passed by Mislung. The path was never slippery or narrow.
Huge rocks and tall trees atop them were a sight to behold!
Sometimes I wondered the meaning of Buddhist engravings.
We again crossed a suspension bridge.
Two suspension bridges could be seen one above another in the following photograph.
We reached Larcha Dovan (9,629 ft.) around 12-30 pm.
Confluence of two rivers was visible after crossing the suspension bridge.
May be for thousands of years, flowing rivers had created deep gorges in the mountains.
Apart from tall trees, bushes and flowers were found aplenty.
New leaves had bright red colour.
Small flowers were found near the ground.
I reached Namche Bazar security check post before 2 pm.
I had to wait for more than twenty minutes for tour company staff to show our permits at the check post.
Namche Bazar map was put on display onto a wall.
After completing formalities at the check post, I entered Namche Bazar (11,221 ft.) around 02-30 pm.
The earthquake damaged entrance was rebuilt during 2017.
The entrance was decorated with rich Buddhist art.
There was a memorial dedicated to Late Pemba Doma Sherpa.
Namche Bazar had transformed itself from a village to a town!
Day 4
The day was a bit relaxed day with an excursion to Everest Viewpoint followed by lunch at a good restaurant at Namche Bazar.
After breakfast around 07-45 am, all the trekkers left for Everest Viewpoint.
Namche Bazar was bustling with guesthouses, lodges, restaurants, bars, parlors!
Namche Bazar was a town only for pedestrians with no vehicles!
The same rout was going to Everest Viewpoint and Tyangbuche.
Buddhist prayer wheels and rock inscriptions abounded.
We walked the opposite way of Tengboche Gokyo to visit Everest Viewpoint.
Trekkers from other groups could be seen in the next photograph:
Shrubs dominated the landscape at very high altitude.
An NGO 'Sagarmatha Next' was functional at an elevation of 12,385 feet!
Tiny flowers were attractive.
Big shrubs were used by birds for resting / hiding.
All of us enjoyed tea at a restaurant.
The open courtyard was the restaurant!
After tea, we proceeded further up. Boards depicting entry rules and entry fee were listed.
Rhododendrons were a full bloom!
Rhododendrons faced tough competition from small flowers almost touching the ground!
When we were about to leave, we had a glimpse of mountains!
We returned to Namche Bazar.
The helipad was visible on the way of return.
The total trek was from 08-00 am to 12-30 pm which was followed by lunch at a good restaurant. The night halt was at Namche Bazar.
Day 5
We started around 8 am after breakfast towards Kyangjuma (11,500 ft.).
The route was scenic!
Colourful plants competed with flowers!
Some trekkers (not from our group) used the background of Buddhist stupa for photo shoot.
The pathway was broad and not risky.
At a few places during the trek, I noticed dustbins.
At a few places, the pathway was cemented.
Even at around 11,000 feet (above sea level), nature was green and no snow was around.
The snow was only at mountain tops.
Roadside flowers were an attraction.
Around 10 am, we reached Kyangjuma (11,500 ft.) and enjoyed ginger lemon tea. Both the groups (EBC and Gokyo) were together till this place. They parted away at Sanasa (11,811 ft.) where we reached around 10-30 am.
Rhododendrons were in full bloom.
As I had already done EBC in the past, my new route started.
The route to Gokyo was less populated.
Railing was a relief to paining legs!
We were gaining altitude slowly.
Tiny flowers always delighted the trekkers.
Around 11-30 am, we were up in the mountains.
Before 12 noon, we reached Mong (12,467 ft.).
Mong was the birthplace of Lama Sangwa Dorje.
At very few places, silver birch trees were found.
We reached Phortse Thanga (12,073 ft.) around quarter to two.
The path was narrow at a few sections.
Tiny waterfalls brought glacial water from the high mountains.
We reached Dole (12,467 ft.) after 4 in the evening.
Night halt was at a lodge at Dole.
Day 6
We started the trek around 07-30 am after breakfast. Flowers were wet with dew.
We left behind Dole.
Only bushes (juniper) were found at the high altitude.
Weather was still bad.
A few yaks were observed grazing at high altitude.
We were at the same height that of the clouds!
Luza was visible from a distance.
We reached Luza around 09-38 am.
We had ginger lemon tea.
A traditional Nepalese house in the mountains looked like this.
In route, a board depicted luxury accommodation at high altitude Himalayas.
The terrain was arid.
Total trek for the day was around three hours.
Night halt was at Machhermo.
Day 7
Before 7 am after breakfast, we started trek towards Gokyo (16,302 ft.).
Machhermo was a settlement of a few lodges / guesthouses.
Shepherds had created stone enclosures to keep their animals.
Tiny flowers had survived high altitude.
A lodge at Fanga (14,665 ft.) was visible.
Glacial streams and moraine greeted us.
We had a steep hike.
Thereafter, we crossed a stream.
We were on the way towards the first Gokyo lake.
The first lake (Longponga Tso) was tiny.
We walked from first Gokyo Lake to the second one.
The third Gokyo lake was known as Dudh Pokhari (16,302 ft.).
A number of lodges and guesthouses catered to the needs of trekkers.
Day 8
Around 7 am, we left the lodge for visiting the remaining two Gokyo lakes.
Dews were frozen on shrubs!
Tiny flowers had survived high altitude and low temperature.
After 8 am, we had a glimpse of the fourth Gokyo lake (Thonak Tso) (15,859 ft.).
A few green plants did survive at that very high altitude.
In addition, we climbed a hill besides the main route to have a good view of mountains - particularly Cho Oyu.
Colourful flowers and leaves were soothing to the eyes.
After visiting the fifth Gokyo lake, we started our return journey after 12 noon.
Around 01-20 pm, we reached the fourth Gokyo lake.
Around 01-45 pm, we reached our guest house on the banks of the third Gokyo lake. The remaining day was utilized for rest as we had to get up early next day.
Day 9
The day was a hectic day as two days' programme was completed in a single day.
After 5 am, we started our trek from Gokyo (16,302 ft.) to Gokyo Ri (17,575 ft.).
Gokyo third lake (Dudh Pokhari) was covered with mist.
Many trekkers were trekking to Gokyo Ri on that day.
At a few places, stones were piled up systematically - may be due to religious purpose.
Gokyo Ri was decorated with Buddhist prayer flags.
Name of the place and altitude was also written.
Due to bad weather, mountain view from Gokyo Ri was not possible.
Mr. Prem - a tour company staff - accompanied me during the trek.
Even at very high altitude, no snow was visible!
On the way back only for a few seconds, mountains were visible.
A small lake was visible in the vicinity.
But soon the mountains disappeared behind the clouds.
It appeared that somebody had painted the rock.
Bad weather hindered the view of Gokyo (third) lake and settlement.
However, we got a bird's eye view of the lake and settlement after a couple of minutes.
We reached banks of the lake before 9 am after a successful trek to Gokyo Ri. We reached our guesthouse at 09-15 am.
Gokyo Ri was the highest point on the whole trek. We started return journey after resting, having food, and winding up from 09-15 am to 10-15 am at Gokyo guesthouse.
From 10-15 am to 12-45 pm, we trekked from Gokyo to Machhermo (14,662 ft.).
After having lunch at Machhermo, we trekked from 01-30 pm to 4-00 pm, to Dole (13,776 ft.).
Day 10
Around 07-30 in the morning, we left Dole after having breakfast.
As we were descending (from high to low altitude), flowers and trees were visible.
The sight of pink rhododendron flowers was soothing to eyes.
Thin waterfalls were flowing from high mountains.
We were moving towards Phortse Thanga.
After 10 am, we reached Phortse Thanga (12,073 ft.).
Thereafter we moved towards Mong La.
We reached Mong La (12,467 ft.) before 11-30 am and had lunch there.
Thereafter we started moving towards Sanasa.
After 01-15 pm, we reached Sanasa (11,843 ft.).
From Sanasa, two divergent ways to Gokyo and Everest Base Camp occur.
Our night halt for the day was Kyangjuma (11,5000 ft.) in a guest house.
Day 11
Surprisingly before 06-30 am, Mr. Dammru Niraula (Nepali tour manager) came to my room and asked me whether I was interested in viewing Mount Everest. I immediately followed him on the main trekking path.
After lunch (after 01-30 pm), we walked in a reverse direction to Tashinga.
As both the groups - Gokyo and EBC - were to meet at Tashinga, we did the reverse journey.
The path was not from the main trekking route; but it can be called as shortcut.
Around 02-30 pm, we reached Tashinga (11,315 ft.) and stayed at a luxury lodge there. Both the trekking groups - Gokyo and EBC reunited there.
Day 12
Both the trekking groups started return journey together after breakfast before 8 am.
The female staff came out to say goodbye in traditional Gorkha attire.
Around quarter to nine in the morning, we reached Sanasa (11,811 ft.).
After Topdanda, we resumed our downward journey.
At 01-40 pm, we reached at Jorsalle (9,350 ft.).
After having lunch at Jorsalle, we started onwards journey at around 02-50 pm.
We reached Sagarmatha National Park entrance after 03-00 pm.
Around 03-30 pm, we reached Monjo (8,560 ft.) and stayed at a luxury lodge there.
Day 13
This was the last trekking day. We left Monjo at 8 am after breakfast.
At 08-30 am, we reached Benkar.
Vegetables were planted besides the trekking route.
During return journey, less photographs were taken.
At 12 noon, we had lunch at Thadakoshi.
This was the last suspension bridge of the trek.
Around 02-30 pm, we reached the check post on the outskirts of Lukla.
Around quarter to three, we reached Lukla (9,187 ft.).
There was no aeroplane at the airport.
We stayed at a luxury lodge at Lukla.
Day 14
After breakfast, we proceeded towards Lukla airport to catch a flight to Kathmandu (4,387 ft.). We waited for a long at the boarding gate of the airport, but we had to return as all flights were cancelled due to bad weather.
All the trekkers decided to travel from Lukla to Kathmandu by chopper at extra cost. Mr. Milind Bhide - owner of Countryside Adventure Pvt. Ltd. - arranged the chopper flight. He accompanied the trekkers; however, Nepalese tour company staff remained at Lukla. Airports for aeroplanes and helicopters were different at Lukla.
Pilot of the chopper was visible in the next photograph.
A lady - not from our group - occupied the seat next to the pilot.
Everybody got busy in taking photographs and shooting videos.
The mountains and hills were covered with monsoon clouds.
Villages were visible when the chopper flew at lower level.
We also saw a river.
Fertile land was visible.
We passed by an unknown town.
We saw confluence of two unknown rivers.
We were relieved to see Kathmandu.
We landed at Kathmandu airport.
The chopper flight lasted for around 50 minutes (03-10 pm to 04-00 pm).
Due to limited seating capacity of chopper, trekkers were divided among other choppers. Trekkers - who reached first - waited for others.
We safely reached Nepali Ghar (hotel) at Kathmandu.
Day 15
Fifteenth day was contingency day which was utilized for Kathmandu sightseeing. We visited three places: Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath, and Natural History Museum (Tribhuvan University).
Photography was not allowed at Pashupatinath temple.
Swayambhunath was a Buddhist religious place. The photographs are available on Shutterfly at following link:
https://link.shutterfly.com/ElJBkaNNjvb
As an illustrative example, only a photograph is presented here.
Photography was not allowed inside Natural History Museum (Tribhuvan University).
Night stay was at Nepali Ghar.
Day 16
Sixteenth day was the last day as per the tour programme and everybody left on that day. However as there was no direct flight from Kathmandu to Mumbai, I stayed at Kathmandu at additional expense.
On that day, I visited Hanuman-Dhoka Durbar Square and Museum. The photographs are available on Shutterfly at following link:
https://link.shutterfly.com/e8UHKpxLjvb
https://link.shutterfly.com/e8UHKpxLjvb
https://link.shutterfly.com/e8UHKpxLjvb
https://link.shutterfly.com/e8UHKpxLjvb
As an illustrative example, only a couple of photographs are presented here.
After a brief shopping, I came back to Nepali Ghar for the last night before departure.
Day 17
Seventeenth day was the last day in Nepal. I boarded a direct flight from Kathmandu (4,387 ft.) to Mumbai.
Gokyo was on my wish list for a long time since I did Everest Base Camp (Nepal). I thank Countryside Adventure Pvt. Ltd. and its staff for arranging a fixed departure to Gokyo. I thank all my fellow trekkers and Nepalese tour company staff particularly Mr. Dammru Niraula for his company.
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